The South Caucasus with Kids: Why Armenia, Georgia & Azerbaijan Belong on Your Family Travel List
Three countries. Thousands of years of history. The best food we've eaten anywhere. And three children who now know the world is far older and more surprising than anyone tells you.
This is Part 1 of a 3-part series
Part 1 — The South Caucasus with Kids: Family Travel Guide You are here Part 2 — Older Than Christianity: History & Culture in the Ancient World → Part 3 — How to Do the South Caucasus in Style: Luxury & Logistics →I bought a one-way ticket to Azerbaijan and planned backwards. That probably tells you everything you need to know about my travel style.
Georgia had been on my bucket list for years — ever since my days as a private chef, when I worked with the most extraordinary Georgian woman. She'd invite me to her house parties in Bay Ridge. Despite being in her 50s, she could drink Georgian wine and Russian vodka like she was 20. They'd gather in that tiny apartment, singing all through the night, wine flowing, delicious Georgian food coming from the kitchen for hours. My heart was set. I needed to get there one day.
As I started planning, I realized Azerbaijan and Armenia were right there too. Well — what does one person do? I said you know what, now or never. I didn't even tell my husband I'd booked a one-way ticket to Azerbaijan.
We were already in Germany — my kids were doing summer camp there, visiting grandparents — when I finalized everything. Three countries most of my clients have never considered. Three countries that genuinely stopped me in my tracks. So I booked it, figured out the rest on the ground, and took my three kids — then 8, 6, and 3 — on one of the most culturally extraordinary trips of our lives.
This is the post I wish I'd had before we went.
Why the South Caucasus?
My husband and I are both international relations majors. We're history people. We've traveled extensively through Europe and Asia and always assumed, the way most Westerners do, that civilization essentially began somewhere between Greece and Rome.
The South Caucasus dismantled that assumption completely.
This region — sandwiched between the Black Sea and the Caspian, bordered by Russia, Turkey, and Iran — has been at the crossroads of every major civilization for thousands of years. The history predates Christianity. It predates most of what we were taught in school. Zoroastrianism was practiced here before the Abrahamic religions existed. The monasteries in Armenia are among the oldest Christian structures on earth. Georgia's culture stretches back over 5,000 years. We totally geeked out learning we were going to be part of the Silk Route.
And almost nobody talks about it.
Every museum we visited told a different version of history — because the Caucasus has been fought over by empires, disputed by neighbors, and shaped by centuries of territorial conflict. My husband's and my eyes lit up every single time. As someone who spent years studying geopolitics, being in a place where the history is literally still contested, still alive, still argued over in the present tense — it was something else entirely.
"We went for the history. We stayed for the food, the people, and the sheer beauty of a region that felt entirely, refreshingly, like itself."
The Itinerary: How We Did It
We flew from Hannover through Istanbul into Baku — arriving at 3am after a delay, because travel with three kids is never not an adventure. Walking through the old airport in Istanbul was something else. Dragging three kids, underslept, bleary-eyed, through a maze of the senses.
We spent several days in Azerbaijan, exploring Baku and the surrounding areas. Then we flew to Tbilisi, hired a private van for a full-day country excursion, and spent several days in Georgia. Finally, we hired a private car to drive from Georgia into Armenia, stopping at historically significant sites along the way, ending in Yerevan.
No rigid itinerary. Loose ideas, adjusted on the ground. That's always been my style — partly by temperament, partly because when you're traveling with three children at three very different ages, you need to leave room for the unexpected. And there was a lot of unexpected.
The single best decision we made: private transportation with local guides throughout. The cultural and historical nuances of this region are dense and layered — having someone who could explain what we were seeing, answer our questions, and translate the subtext made the trip exponentially richer.
Azerbaijan: Fire, History & 90s Rap
Baku surprised us in every possible way. Most of what I knew about Azerbaijan came from Bond movies. So really — not much.
Azerbaijan is a Muslim country, but you can still purchase alcohol alongside a beautiful tradition of sweet cafes, mocktails, and dessert bars. The city is hot during the day — genuinely, overwhelmingly hot — but it comes alive at night in a way that felt almost Mediterranean. Women dressed up, families out late, the streets buzzing with energy. We saw groups of women from across the broader Middle East doing girls' getaways here, and it made complete sense. Absolutely safe to walk around, a modern city, upscale shopping, and for such a small city, a fair share of luxury vehicles.
The old city — Icherisheher — is a UNESCO World Heritage site and genuinely stunning. Ancient walls, winding alleys, fire temples that date back millennia. The Ateshgah Fire Temple outside the city was one of the highlights of the entire trip — a place of Zoroastrian pilgrimage where natural gas flames have burned from the ground for centuries. My husband could have spent the entire day there.
I didn't know much about Zoroastrianism before this trip. But it predates Christianity. On that same journey we learned so much about the Persian Empire and its rich culture spanning thousands of years. A side note: over a year after our visit, I mentioned in passing that I'd received a flyer about the Bahá'í Faith and their connection to Zoroastrianism. My daughter — who was only 8 at the time — said, "Oh, didn't we learn about them in Azerbaijan?" Take that trip. They are learning more than you know.
And then there were the mud volcanoes.
If you want to understand what it feels like to drive on the surface of the moon, hire a car to the mud pits outside Baku. The road — and I use that term loosely — is essentially a series of craters, potholes, and geological surprises that had me genuinely questioning whether our vehicle was going to flip. The kids thought it was the funniest thing that had ever happened to them. I was less amused. But the mud volcanoes themselves are unlike anything I've seen anywhere — bubbling pools of cool grey mud emerging from the earth, completely surreal.
A few things nobody warned us about
The bathrooms. In many places, squat toilets. With a 3-year-old and a 6-year-old, this was an experience. Small legs, significant logistics. Come prepared with tissues.
The shopping. Baku has Gucci, Dior, Louis Vuitton — a full luxury retail strip that genuinely caught us off guard.
The 90s rap. Somehow, Baku is still fully committed. Tupac was playing in multiple establishments. We have no complaints. It was a return to my childhood.
Best breakfast: The Turkish breakfast at Azaz Terrace. The kids demolished it. So did we.
Best surprise: Purple Korean Street Food in the Ganjlik area. Excellent.
Georgia: The Loudest, Most Beautiful Country We've Ever Visited
Tbilisi is not a quiet city. We're New Yorkers, so our threshold for noise is high. But Tbilisi at night is genuinely loud — bachelor parties, groups of travelers, music from every direction. If you're a light sleeper or traveling with very young children, choose your accommodation carefully.
We stayed in an Airbnb overlooking the city from the hills, with a balcony where we ate dinner as the sun set over Tbilisi's rooftops. After the kids went to sleep, my husband and I sat outside with Georgian wine — which is extraordinary — and just took in the city spread below us. That image is burned into my memory.
The hills of Tbilisi are real. Like Lisbon, this is a city of steep streets and unexpected staircases. Come with comfortable shoes. Be prepared to work your glutes and for your luggage wheels to suffer. Taxis are fairly affordable — on the return we took cabs, but those tight hairpin turns, uphill climbs, and manual transmissions were hair-raising.
The Georgian countryside knocked us sideways. We hired a private van with a driver who was also our personal interpreter for a full-day excursion outside Tbilisi. Ancient cave cities, mountain monasteries, river valleys — covered in one day without anyone having to drive or navigate. Georgia's relationship with Russia is complex and very much present in how people talk about their history. We even went to Stalin's birthplace. Having someone explain those nuances in real time transformed what we were seeing.
One thing to know: Georgians are not always immediately warm to tourists. We had moments where people physically moved our kids out of the way to get past. In context it makes sense — Georgia has a long history of foreign occupation. Understanding that didn't make it less startling, but it helped.
The cats of Tbilisi deserve their own mention. The city is absolutely full of them — beloved, fed, named, photographed. My kids were in heaven.
Best meal: Sofiko Restaurant in Tbilisi. Sit outside. Order the Khachapuri — cheesy bread, yes please. Take in the views. Order everything.
Armenia: The Best Food, the Richest History, the Kindest Strangers
The border crossing from Georgia into Armenia was, diplomatically speaking, an experience.
Several large tour buses arrived at exactly the same time. There was no real queue — just a dense crowd pushing toward passport control. Our oldest had traveler's diarrhea. The bathroom was exactly as you'd expect at a land border crossing.
And then the Chinese grandmas stepped in.
A group of older Chinese women — fellow travelers, complete strangers — saw what we were dealing with and helped us. I don't speak Mandarin. They didn't speak English. It didn't matter. Kindness crosses every language barrier.
At Armenian passport control, we were questioned about our stay in Azerbaijan. The two countries have a complicated history. If you've been to Azerbaijan, expect questions entering Armenia. Stay calm, answer honestly, allow extra time.
Once through, Armenia was magnificent.
Yerevan surprised us completely. The downtown area buzzes with restaurants, music, and people until very late. The food was the best of the entire trip. We did not have a single bad meal.
At one restaurant, dishes started arriving that we hadn't ordered. We were confused, politely pushed back, and were told to stop — the large table across from us had over-ordered and, culturally, the right thing to do was send the excess to another table. One of the most generous, unexpected, beautiful things that has happened to us in any restaurant, anywhere in the world.
The Armenian wine culture was a revelation. Armenia is one of the world's oldest wine-producing regions — evidence of winemaking goes back 6,000 years. We didn't know this before we arrived. We were very glad we found out.
Best restaurant: Katsin in Yerevan. Go. Just go.
Traveling the South Caucasus with Kids: The Honest Truth
Private transportation everywhere — non-negotiable with kids this age. Local SIM cards so phones worked throughout. Ride-share apps in each city. Keeping days loose enough to adjust when someone needed a break.
Squat toilets — genuinely challenging with small children. The heat in Baku during the day. The border crossing — allow more time than you think you need. The hills in Tbilisi and Yerevan.
The cities are more walkable than you'd expect. English works in most tourist areas. The food is extraordinary, especially in Armenia. Your kids will remember this trip for the rest of their lives.
Book airport transfers in advance. Reserve restaurants in Yerevan. Download local ride-share apps before you arrive. Bring tissues — always. Plan Baku outdoor activities for early morning or evening.
The South Caucasus is not an easy trip. It asks something of you — flexibility, patience, willingness to let go of the plan.
What it gives back is extraordinary.
Three countries. Thousands of years of history. The best food we've eaten anywhere. Moments of unexpected kindness from strangers. And three children who now know the world is far older, richer, and more surprising than anyone tells you.
Ready to Plan Your South Caucasus Journey?
Sirena Collective specializes in building extraordinary itineraries for destinations most advisors have never visited. We've been there, navigated it with kids, and know exactly what makes the difference between a good trip and an unforgettable one.
Start Planning →Frequently Asked Questions
Is the South Caucasus safe to travel with kids?
Yes — Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia are all safe for family travel. Baku is a modern city with a strong safety record. Tbilisi and Yerevan are highly walkable and family-friendly. Private transportation with a local guide is strongly recommended for navigating the region with children.
What is the best order to visit Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia?
Fly into Baku, spend several days exploring Azerbaijan, then fly or travel to Tbilisi, Georgia. End with a private car crossing into Armenia, stopping at historical sites along the way and ending in Yerevan. Note: if you plan to visit both Azerbaijan and Armenia, enter Azerbaijan first — Armenian stamps can cause entry issues at the Azerbaijani border.
Do you need a visa for the South Caucasus?
US passport holders can obtain an e-visa for Azerbaijan before travel. Georgia offers visa-free entry for US citizens for up to 365 days. Armenia also offers visa-free entry for US citizens. Always verify current entry requirements before travel as policies change.
What are the best restaurants in Yerevan, Armenia?
Katsin in Yerevan is exceptional and strongly recommended. The restaurant scene in Yerevan is outstanding — make reservations in advance, particularly for dinner. Armenia has one of the oldest wine-producing traditions in the world, so pair your meal with local Armenian wine.